Restaurant SNOW
A Nordic restaurant that marshals Kyushu’s ingredients
Beyond the exposed concrete walls and floor-to-ceiling glass windows lies a warmly inviting wooden counter. Restaurant SNOW, which sits quietly on the ground floor of an condominium in a residential area, was opened in owner-chef Genki Unno’s hometown of Fukuoka after he honed his skills in France, Belgium, and Denmark. Wielding French culinary techniques and an innovative mindset cultivated in Nordic countries, the chef single-handedly prepares over 15 desserts for lunch and around 26 dishes for dinner, and serves them as an omakase chef’s choice course.
The menu is based on and unwavering commitment to fresh seafood, meat, and vegetables sourced from all over Kyushu. Chef Unno goes all out to showcase the rich bounty of Kyushu by building on the concept of terroir*—expressing the land’s unique character through cuisine. This includes renowned local ingredients such as beef from Aka-ushi (Japanese Brown) cattle raised Aso in Kumamoto, konoshiro (gizzard shad, also known as kohada and a prized sushi topping) from the Ariake Sea, and Shiroishi lotus root from Saga. Beyond these renowned specialties, the menu also features esoteric seafood, heirloom vegetables, and traditional seasonings, many of which may be unfamiliar even to locals. On one occasion, for example, the risotto served as the course’s finale included Japanese mizuika (bigfin reef squid) from the Genkai-nada Sea off Fukuoka Prefecture and suji-aonori (dried green seaweed) from Amakusa. The contrast between the firm and chewy texture of the mizuika, the expansive aroma of the sea, and the gentle sweetness of the rice created an addictive combination. SNOW only accepts reservations for up to three parties for both lunch and dinner and is fully booked virtually every day. This restaurant captivates diners with each dish telling a story crafted by the chef and attracts devoted fans who travel from afar. It’s a must-visit when in Fukuoka.
*This term originally referred to the natural environmental factors surrounding a vineyard and later became the foundation of French wine laws (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée). The concept that wine made from specific regions, specific districts, or unique vineyards has a distinctive character, i.e., the taste of the land, is now widely used when discussing regional produce, cheese, meat, and seafood.
A life-changing encounter with Nordic countries
Originally wanting to become a French chef, I studied at the Tsuji Culinary Institute’s Château Escoffier school in France after attending a vocational school. I then went on to work at Michel Guérard, a Michelin three-star restaurant. After returning to Japan temporarily, I apprenticed at Bois Et Dupont in Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture. In 2009, I returned to Europe and worked as the sous chef at Barbizon in Brussels, Belgium, where I learned the techniques of making appetizers and bread. During my four years in Europe, I traveled to about 20 countries and was impressed by the richness of the flavors and ideas of the Nordic countries. In 2011, I knocked on the door of the venerable Danish restaurant Søllerød Kro. I was the first foreign staffer at Søllerød Kro, and it was a time when it was rare to find Japanese chefs doing apprenticeships in Nordic countries.
At the time, NOMA (a restaurant in Copenhagen, Denmark) was attracting attention in Nordic countries, having been voted the world’s best restaurant for three consecutive years by the world’s top food critics in “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list. The potential of Nordic cuisine, which was discovered by the culinary master Ferran Adrià of El Bulli (a three-star restaurant in Roses on the Costa Brava, Catalonia, Spain) and refined by local chefs inspired by him, consolidated its position with the rise of NOMA. I embrace the possibilities of cuisine with pride and respect for the rich ingredients produced by the local environment. The concept of “new Nordic cuisine”, which fully embraces a love for one’s country and brings out the unique characteristics and charm of the land, has become the guiding principle that underpins my career as a chef.
Pursuing the local characteristics of Kyushu with the new Nordic cuisine concept
I feel that Nordic countries and Kyushu are similar in that they are both treasure troves of rich ingredients. The Kyushu region is made up of eight prefectures: Fukuoka, Saga, Nagasaki, Kumamoto, Oita, Miyazaki, Kagoshima, and Okinawa. The climate and culture of the north and south of the island differ, and a variety of ingredients that make the most of regional characteristics are grown. My theme with cuisine is “expressing the local character of my region of Kyushu using French techniques and the concept of New Nordic Cuisine”. I use ingredients from Kyushu to the extent possible and strive to create dishes that one can only experience in this area.
To cite an example, the appetizer for one service featured higenaga-ebi (jack-knife shrimp), which can only be caught around the Koshikishima Islands off the west coast of Kagoshima Prefecture. Also known as Satsuma amaebi (sweet shrimp), this shrimp is characterized by its rich sweetness and is a close relative of langoustines or scampi, a staple of Western cuisine. This dish, which is served with a hard-to-find amaebi, a lemon cream sauce with a tangy flavor typical of Nordic cuisine, dill herb oil that pairs well with fish dishes, and pickles made from Momonosuke turnips from Itoshima in Fukuoka Prefecture, is an expression of Nordic cuisine that carefully preserves its traditional structure while replacing some of the ingredients with those found in Kyushu. Rather than simply using local ingredients as substitutes, I try to bring out the full potential of each ingredient, elevating them to a higher level on the plate.
The versatility required of Japanese rice
My passion for local heritage is equally reflected in my approach to rice. The rice I use at SNOW is sourced mainly from Fukuoka, Saga, and Nagasaki prefectures, which are known as the main rice-producing areas in Kyushu. Compared to long-grain rice (jasmine rice) from overseas, Japanese rice has a more subtle and less distinctive aroma. I think its appeal lies in its versatility to accompany all kinds of ingredients. As a whole, there are many rice varieties that have a high water and starch content and are sticky and fluffy when cooked. At SNOW, however, I often buy rice for making risotto, so I also focus on the balance of sweetness and stickiness. Also, I believe that newly harvested rice is delicious when eaten as is, so I feel that rice that has been matured for a few months is more compatible with my cuisine.
Recently, I came across a rice variety called Nikomaru that is grown by Doi Farm, a pig farm, run by an acquaintance of mine. At this farm, they believe the foundation of agriculture is soil cultivation, and they are working on a circular farming method in which they feed rice to the pigs and then apply the compost produced by the pigs back to grow the rice. Pigs that eat edible rice and are raised on groundwater from the Taradake River system are a brand variety called Kanbiton pork, which is characterized by its high-quality fat and meat. Nikomaru, which is grown using only pig manure, is attractive for its large grains, chewy texture and its deep, rich flavor that spreads slowly over the tongue.
Currently, there are many varieties of Japanese rice grown across the Japanese archipelago. Even within the same brand variety, the unique climate, environment, and various factors such as the grower all contribute to differences in character, which makes it fascinating to me. (This is true for other ingredients as well.) I use rice from Kyushu because the theme of the restaurant is regionality, but I think the rice from my wife’s hometown of Hokkaido has a deep flavor of its own and is the best if you want to enjoy it as plain white rice. Of course, the main accompaniment is mentaiko (spicy cod roe) Fukuoka’s soul food.
Recipe ideas inspired by Japanese regional cuisine
The risotto that closes the course is actually a very versatile dish, and it is easy to adapt it from Japanese local cuisine. For example, in Oita Prefecture, a rice dish called ohan is cooked to a brilliant golden yellow color using water infused with dried gardenia fruit. It is said that this dish was first made to imitate Spanish paella reflecting the history of the flourishing trade with Spain and Portugal. I created a recipe inspired by this ohan, arranged in risotto style with dried gardenia soup. I have also served a risotto inspired by tsuan-tsuan, a peanut-infused mixed rice dish from Kagoshima.
I believe that the feeling of wanting to try local dishes when visiting a new place is a natural expression of curiosity about new food cultures. There is no custom of serving rice as a final dish in French or Nordic cuisine. Yet as a Japanese person opening a restaurant in Japan, it was a natural progression to handle Japanese rice as one of the ingredients I would be proud of. By serving rice as the finale, it plays a pivotal role in the course. It is a symbol of Japanese food culture for overseas customers and as something that gives local customers a sense of spiritual satisfaction, rather than just filling their stomachs.
Actually, one aspect I changed since first opening SNOW is to reduce the usage of dairy products, which are a symbol of Nordic cuisine. By visiting the growing regions and working engaging with the ingredients, I refine each element to bring out their natural potential, gradually arriving at the recipes I create today. While respecting the traditions of Nordic cuisine, I never stop evolving and pursuing new ideas, staying close to the land, ingredients, and culture in which I live. That may well be the unwavering new Nordic cuisine for me.
An awareness of appreciating the blessings that are close at hand
Many people overseas who want to enjoy Japanese food already know that rice is a common item on menus in Japan. Even so, I think it’s hard for people to believe that rice is eaten in such a diverse range of ways to suit each situation, such as breakfast, lunch, and dinner. During my apprenticeship in Denmark, I was asked by a colleague, “I heard that Japanese people eat rice every day, but is that really true?” When I told him, he exclaimed, “What, you eat rice three times a day? Japanese people are crazy!” It is to that extent that rice has always been the centerpiece of the Japanese diet. On the other hand, rice consumption in Japan has been decreasing in recent years. There are also issues such as whether the farming methods and distribution prices for rice production are suited to the modern framework, and how much of the profits are being returned to the producers. I feel that rice, which plays a focal role in Japanese food culture, is a foodstuff that gives us happiness, but at the same time is always causing problems and raising alarms. I think that it is not only us chefs who need to tackle these issues, but also the mindset of every Japanese person living in this country. I love this place where I was born and raised, so as a chef, I want to continue to sincerely engage with Japanese rice and local ingredients every day.
Recommended dish
Satsuma amaebi from Koshikishima Islands of Kagoshima Prefecture with lemon and dill (served as part of a course) 鹿児島県・甑島産 薩摩甘エビ・レモン・ディル（コースの一品として提供）
While carrying on the core elements of Nordic cuisine—fresh seafood, sour flavors, herb aromas and beautiful green hues—he also uses the hard-to-find amaebi from the Koshikishima Islands in Kagoshima Prefecture. The lemon cream sauce and refreshing dill herb oil blend adeptly with the lingering sweetness of the raw shrimp. The crunchy, light texture of pickled Momonosuke turnips is a homage to Denmark, the country where the chef apprenticed. This is a dish that conveys depth and elegance in its simple composition.
