Please tell us about AKIRA Restaurant.
The restaurant has been in operation since 2018 from the opening of Japan House London, an
establishment which aims to promote the various appeals of Japanese culture. It is located in the
heart of Kensington, an area renowned as a cultural hub.
Being located within Japan House, I feel that we assume a vital role in promoting authentic
Japanese cuisine. That is, traditional Japanese cuisine, not anything modern. We deliver a
Japanese dining experience based on the “trinity of cooking” principle in which the finest food,
tableware, and presentation are brought together using seasonal ingredients. We present a
variety of culinary cultures—including robatayaki (charcoal grill), delicate small dishes, full-course
wagyu beef dinners, sushi, donburi (rice bowls), and bento (lunch meals)—so there is something
for every one of our guests to enjoy.
Please tell us about your career as a chef.
I actually started out as a chef for western cuisine. I was apprenticed to a chef who served at
Renga-tei, a western-style restaurant with a long-standing history located in Ginza, Tokyo. About
30 years ago, I joined a company that sent me to New York where I experienced the early stages
of the spread of Japanese cuisine. After returning to Japan, I took part in the establishment of
numerous restaurants.
Last year, I assumed the position of executive chef here at AKIRA, to fill the void that formed
when all Japanese staff left the restaurant. We are now in the process of hiring more Japanese
chefs in order to redefine AKIRA into an authentic Japanese restaurant.
I am adept in various fields, but my expertise is in beef. We have a shortage of overseas chefs
who are proficient in working with beef, in terms of both knowledge and skill. I am also capable of
butchering, so I dream of spreading yakiniku (Japanese-style barbeque) to the world.
Nothing Beats a Simple Onigiri Made with Japanese-Grown Rice
What dishes using rice do you see as being popular?
Sushi is the most popular here. We get many orders of both nigiri-zushi (hand-pressed) and
maki-zushi (rolled). Donburi of chicken and wagyu roast beef are also very popular. We put an
emphasis on serving dishes that give Japanese natives a sense of nostalgia. By this, we strive to
deliver real, authentic Japanese dishes to our local guests, more so than catering to their tastes.
Please tell us about the rice you use in your restaurant.
We use the Akita-komachi brand, grown in Akita prefecture. Upon the opening of AKIRA, it was
chosen to be the best brand suited to our menu, out of the limited choices of rice being imported into the UK at the time. We feel that its grain size, texture, and smooth taste make it well-suited for use in sushi. It also goes well together with the red rice vinegar and sugar we use.
What are the characteristics and merits of Japanese-grown rice?
The texture, shine, and the sweetness that fills your mouth when you enjoy freshly cooked rice.
That pretty much sums it up! The magnificent aroma and flavor of rice cooked in a traditional
donabe pot alone is enough to satisfy you. You need nothing else. Nothing beats making a
simple onigiri (rice ball) with a bit of salt. Japanese-grown rice is so savory that it is best enjoyed
as a simple, salt-seasoned onigiri.
How do local ingredients come to play?
There are plenty of quality, local-grown ingredients, but some dishes just require the high level of
harmony that can only be brought about by Japanese-grown ingredients. It has become relatively
easy to acquire Japanese-grown ingredients in a major city like London, but they tend to be quite
pricey, so we work with what our budget allows.
We acknowledge the significance of sourcing locally, but some ingredients are so essential that
they require us to sacrifice food mileage. The high cost of delivering authentic Japanese food is a
great challenge we face. We must explore ways to reduce the cost of sourcing to increase
customer satisfaction in terms of price.
Cook Rice with Gas, Rather Than Electricity
What is important when cooking rice?
When cooking rice for sushi, we use a bit of gluten-free, aged soy sauce to add umami. It is ideal
for the grains to separate with the slightest touch of the mouth. Not too solid, not too loose. This
really depends on the delicate sense that every Japanese chef acquires.
We prepare about 12 kilograms of rice daily, and ideally, it is essential to use a professional-grade, gas-powered rice cooker for cooking this hefty amount without sacrificing taste. However,
such equipment is not available in the UK. Electric-powered cookers lack the high pressure
necessary for good texture. It is widely known in Japan that cooking with traditional donabe pots
are essential for bringing out the true taste of rice. Unfortunately, this is just not possible with an
electric cooker.
Do you do anything special with the water?
When I first came to London, there was something I noticed about the water here. In New York,
when you boil water in a pot, you quickly get a buildup of lime, but that doesn’t happen here. The
water seems to be relatively soft. After trying it out, I’ve concluded that the water here is fine to
use as is.
Please tell us about how you acquire and store your rice.
We acquire our rice from Tazaki Foods, an importer of Japanese food. We order rice daily and
use up what we buy, so we have no need for storage. We trust Tazaki Foods to be storing the
rice in a controlled environment. I believe this is the key to maintaining a fresh supply. Although,
of course, the ideal would be to buy unhulled rice and prepare it ourselves.
Our Mission: Diversify the Brands of Japanese-Grown Rice and Dishes That Suit Them
Do you believe that your guests would be able to distinguish between rice of Japanese origin from others?
I believe there are already those who can make the distinction. And if the onigiri became more
commonplace, I believe more people would be able to tell, but we have a ways to go until then.
For now, I would focus on presenting dishes that promote the taste of Japanese-grown rice.
For instance, when I was working at a wagyu beef restaurant, we used rice grown in the Noto
region of Ishikawa prefecture because it went well with the beef. We asked an expert—who
specialized in making rice blends—to make the selection and, indeed, it was a superb match. It
had a rich, sweet taste. It was perfect for both sukiyaki (simmered beef) and yakiniku; and our
guests applauded.
The best brand of rice depends on the dish that goes with it. I believe if there was more variety in
the import of rice into the UK, locals would begin to understand the differences. Maybe we may
even have rice tasting become a thing, like with wine.
What other potential do you see with Japanese-grown rice?
I expect Japanese cuisine to maintain its popularity here in the UK, and that the demand for rice
will continue to grow. Whether simple onigiris or course meals, if we deliver dishes that
emphasize the importance of rice, guests will begin to choose our restaurant for the rice. In this
sense, I am focusing my attention on the growing popularity of onigiri and sushi in Europe.
I believe if chefs had a variety of brands to choose their rice from, they would begin to create
dishes that suit those brands. That would promote motivation. There are dishes of western origin
that require Japanese-grown rice to bring out their full potential, like omurice (omelet with rice).
The texture and sweetness of Japanese-grown rice balances the acidity of ketchup, creating a
delicate taste in your mouth. Basically, only Japanese-grown rice can bring about that distinctive
taste. Indica rice, for instance, just doesn’t compare.
There is a growing number of individuals that prefer to eat gluten-free, while rice can be enjoyed
by practically everyone. This is a great selling point. If restaurants began popping up that
specialized in delivering different brands of rice, I believe that would pave the way for introducing
a greater variety of Japanese dishes to the local population. We face the worthwhile challenge of
cultivating the tastes of our local guests.
Mr. Shimatani is a chef with profound expertise in both traditional and western-originated
Japanese cuisine. As casual Japanese dishes—such as katsu-curry, ramen, and okonomiyaki—
gain widespread popularity here in London, he recognizes the potential of western-originated
Japanese cuisine in promoting the significance of Japanese-grown rice.
We can expect rice to assume an increasingly important role in the UK with the rising demand for gluten-free cuisine. From this interview, we can learn of the importance of increasing the variety of available brands of Japanese-grown rice in order to continue to cultivate interest for Japanese cuisine as a whole.
A bit of advice from Mr. Shimatani
for locals looking to enjoy Japanese-grown rice
I recommend using gas-power when cooking your rice. Put your pot on an open fire and cook at
high pressure. Try enjoying freshly cooked rice with simple dishes. Japanese ingredients are
becoming increasingly available here in London, so try searching for that dish that delights your
taste buds!
